Day 2: Behind the scenes of the Calavera short surf film, Water Warriors…More surfing and more warrior paint!

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This morning we were up super early again to catch the tide and the waves to continue filming for the surf movie. The swell hadn’t really dropped so we were still battling with big sets and lots of paddling. Nevertheless Danielle, Jordan and I managed to get a few waves each, desperately trying to avoid the super heavy closeout sets that were coming through every 15-20 minutes! It was manic. We surfed for a good couple of hours during the morning session, and great job to Jordan who got the barrel of the day – go girl!
Later on we came down to surf again at around 1. We re-painted on our warrior faces and headed back out for some more waves. The conditions weren’t great with the tide being too low, and as soon as we paddled out a huge rainstorm came and chased away our film crew haha. But within 15 minutes, the rain had past, the offshore had cleaned up the surf, the tide was filling in, the sun came out and the conditions were awesome. Stoked! Fortunately one of our filmers Gary was still around to get some footage of the afternoon, so we were good to go. It was a long long session; Danielle and I actually stayed out until after 5.30. There was still a lot of size to the swell, with some monstrous sets coming through, and we all took some serious waves on the head hahaha. One wave actually slammed my face into the board so hard that my braces cut through my lips and now I have a swollen mouth haha. Gnarly! We hope that the swell is going to drop a little bit tomorrow so we can get our wave count up and get some more of the footage that we are looking for. This evening we are all SO tired from the paddling, the adrenaline, the wipeouts haha, and probably the 7 hours of surfing! I can barely even walk.
Big dinner now followed by a good sleep, because tomorrow is going to be another early one and hopefully some more awesome waves!! Yippeeeeee x

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  1. Braces through the lip??… Brutal! You girls be careful out there!

    • Hahaha thanks girl…! It was defiantly a gnarly set – you know how it is!
      Today it is less swollen, so I am ready for our next session :-)….
      Miss you loads, come and visit again soon xx


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